Chanel No. 19 c1970

Chanel No. 19 by Chanel: launched in 1970. Created by Henri Robert. In USA in 1972. Chairman of the board of Chanel, Inc, at the time, H. Gregory Thomas (who also served as president of the company for 32 years),  said that his good friend, Mademoiselle Chanel wanted a perfume all her own. It had to be something very different from Chanel No. 5, and she commissioned her top perfumers to work on the new concoction. 

A confidante of Chanel's is said to have told her: "Why not bottle that indomitable, creative, magnificent spirit of yours? Make it your own personal signature. There must be a fragrance that captures the very essence of Coco Chanel. There are many, many ways I would describe what is uniquely you. But I shall choose perhaps 19 of the most obvious. This perfume must do justice to each. You will always be young no matter what age you reach. And truly elegant in your manner and lifestyle. Intensely female. Graceful. Casually understated. Contemporary. Brilliant. Witty. Fascinating. Generous. Honest. Courageous. Outspoken. Supremely confident and completely independent as few women are or ever hope to be. You are logical. A perfectionist. Unforgettable. And way ahead fo your time and the rest of us as well."

According to the story, Chanel was both delighted and amused by it. And having been born on Aug 19, she found the temptation to name the new fragrance No. 19 too great to resist. This was Coco Chanel's private perfume which she used for the three years preceding her death. Her own private stock, she occasionally gave some to special friends or select couture customers of the 31 rue Cambon salon. But mainly, she kept it to herself, "So that," said Chanel, "when I leave the room a touch of me remains."

Thomas promised her that the fragrance would not be marketed until her death. "She felt that she didn't want it sold as long as she was alive," said Thomas. The unnamed perfume's formula was found among her personal papers. The perfume came to be named Chanel No. 19, after Coco Chanel's birthday, August 19. "She was born on Aug 19," said Thomas, "I know the real year of her birth, but I'm not telling." (It was revealed it was officially in 1883).

Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel c2001

Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel: launched in 2001. Created by Jacques Polge.

Coco by Chanel c1984

Coco by Chanel: launched in 1984. The nose behind this fragrance is Jacques Polge.

Vintage 1950s Chanel Perfume Lucite Tester Rack

Vintage 1950s lucite tester rack, holding mini perfume bottles.

Vintage Chanel No. 5 Bottles in Fitted Case

Rare, vintage 1940s-1960s graduated set of three Chanel No. 5 glass perfume bottles with original contents in a fitted leather case. Holds 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz and 1 oz extrait.

Chanel No. 31 c1920 and Mademoiselle Chanel 31 rue Cambon c1945

Chanel No. 31: launched around 1921, created by Ernest Beaux.

Chanel No 31: possibly relaunched in 1933.

On Thursday, March 04, 1948, a U.S. federal trademark registration was filed for MADEMOISELLE CHANEL 31 RUE CAMBON by Chanel, Inc., NEW YORK.

First Use Anywhere: 2/17/1948
First Use In Commerce: 2/17/1948

The USPTO has given the MADEMOISELLE CHANEL 31 RUE CAMBON trademark serial number of 71551168 in 1950. The federal status of this trademark filing expired in 1992.

Mademoiselle Chanel No. 31 rue Cambon: launched in 1945. Became Coco Chanel's signature scent following the split from the Wertheimer's.

Unhappy with the quality of the perfumes that the Wertheimers were selling in her name through their newly minted Chanel, Inc. company in the USA, in 1945, Gabrielle took matters into her own hands.

After finding a small perfumer in Switzerland to produce her new perfumes using the last of her raw materials, she started a new perfume line on her own and began making a line of competitive perfumes, based on the originals. She named them "Mademoiselle Chanel No.5", , “Mademoiselle Chanel 31 rue Cambon”. The perfumer also made new versions of Ernest Beaux’s creations and renamed them “Mademoiselle Chanel Bois des Iles” and “Mademoiselle Chanel Cuir de Russie.”

Gabrielle Chanel gave lawyer, Rene de Chambrun several tiny bottles to give to his wife. She then asked if it were possible that she could make these up from her own home, and Chambrun declared that she could, provided that she could only give them as “gifts”. Chambrun’s wife enjoyed the perfume and a Russian “nose” also agreed and they both deemed the perfume “exquisite”. A Swiss perfumer was instructed by Gabrielle to make up a hundred bottles of her various perfumes.

To get around the trademark for the bottle design, she used cylindrical bottles with sloping shoulder and topped with disk shaped, ground glass stoppers adorned with a red circular label bearing a large C for Chanel. These same bottles (sans Chanel labels) were also used by D’Orsay for several of their perfumes. To decorate the bottles Gabrielle used a eye catching red label with white lettering, in a simplistic font, true to her style of minimalism.

She then started selling the perfumes in her boutique. Chambrun mistakenly believed that she was permitted to do so in her contract with the Wertheimers. The Wertheimers disagreed and claimed she was counterfeiting their product of which they owned the trademark names. In 1946, a lawsuit between her and the Wertheimers ensued. They came to her boutique and seized all of her bottles labeled "Mademoiselle Chanel No. 5". A new settlement was reached and, she was allowed to sell perfumes under the name "Mademoiselle Chanel" but was not allowed to use the number 5 in conjunction with any of her perfumes.

Keeping her promise to Chambrun and Maitre Chresteil, president of the French Bar Association, she prefixed each perfume with “Mademoiselle Chanel” and sent them as gifts to her friends, Hollywood’s own Samuel Goldwyn and owners of the two most prolific department stores in New York Neiman Marcus and Bernard Gimbel.

She ceased the production of these perfumes in 1947. Who was the Swiss perfumer? No one knows. Gabrielle never revealed his name publicly.

So what does it smell like? Notes of oakmoss, jasmine and roses. This was later reformulated by Henri Robert and christened Chanel No. 19 and launched in 1970 as a tribute to Coco Chanel on the occasion of her birthday.

This is a different perfume than the newly made 31 rue Cambon: created in 2007 by Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake. Notes: Iris, rose, jasmine, sandalwood, bergamot, black pepper, patchouli, citrus, labdanum

The Best French Short Stories of ... and the Yearbook of the ... - Page 23, 1923:

"They were like that cursed perfume — mixture No. 31, which he got from Chanel's — which always floated round Gerard. . . . Ah, what a nuisance!"

Photo from Elysium.

Photo from Elysium.

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Jasmin c1933

Jasmin by Chanel: launched in 1933, created by Ernest Beaux.

Chypre c1925

Chypre: launched in 1925, created by Ernest Beaux.

Ambre c1925

Ambre: launched in 1925, supposedly the first perfume made for Chanel by Ernest Beaux.

FAKE CHANEL PERFUME ALERT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Vintage-CHANEL-NO-5-Pure-Perfume-Extrait-1-4-oz-7-ml-Full-In-Box-/310570791968?pt=fragrance&hash=item484f763420

Vintage Chanel No. 5 Perfume Bottles

Here are three pictures of authentic Chanel perfume in the larger sizes.

Extrait GM = 3 oz parfum extrait

Extrait MM = 2 oz parfum extrait

Photos by ebay seller hitidedeer

To open the classic Chanel crystal parfum flacon, use the following tip provided by Parfums Chanel in 1963:

Remove cord and paper; with index finger as cushion, tap underneath sides of stopper lightly with glass object (glass on glass being the scientific method) while turning the bottle steadily between fingers, so that the stopper will be loosened evenly.

Real Chanel No. 19 vs. Fake Chanel No. 19

Here is a fake Chanel No. 19 bottle (photo originally posted on basenotes).. this bottle was never use by Chanel, you can also see that the label is fake as well.

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FAKE CHANEL ALERT!!

Fake Chanel on ebay --- http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHANEL-No-5-Vintage-Parfum-1-oz-30-ml-Pure-Perfume-Classic-Original-Formula-/181160190348?pt=fragrance&hash=item2a2dfd218c

Another fake on ebay - ---- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Vintage-CHANEL-NO-5-Pure-Perfume-Extrait-1-4-oz-7-ml-Full-In-Box-/310570791968?pt=fragrance&hash=item484f763420

Examples of Negative Feedback for Fake Perfumes

Here are some examples of negative feedback for Chanel perfumes on ebay.

I copied and pasted these feedbacks directly from ebay and Toolhaus.org.

	!!! WARNING ! ! ! COUNTERFEIT ASPECTS--SCENT, BOTTLE, PACKAGING	m80hall ( 124)	Mar-29-13 07:31
	Reply by xguardian123 (Mar-29-13 14:10): We never sell anything other than genuine brand items. A+ reviews please read.
	Chanel Coco Mademoiselle 3.4oz Women's Eau de Parfum (#121075350254)

	Because it's a Chanel, I had hoped it was made in France. Next time, specify.	Buyer: Member idtess2377 ( Feedback Score Of259)	Nov-09-06 06:54
	Reply by gifts-unlimited (Nov-10-06 18:50): Buyer assumed where it was made, I did not lie. All my Chanels are made in USA.
	-- (#290039355980)

	Thx	perfumestash ( 156)	May-04-13 12:35
	Follow-up by perfumestash (May-05-13 11:37): This Item has Alien Particals Floating and does NOT smell like Chance. FAKE.
	1Chanel Chance3.4oz Perfume for Woman (#261205802161)

	shippin A++/ not same item as in description, was fake not to sellers knowledge	Buyer: deevicx201 ( 116)	Jan-02-13 08:36
	BRAND NEW & SEALED Chanel No. 5 3.4oz Women's Eau de Parfum BEST PRICE ON EBAY (#170961974634)

Coco Noir c2012

Coco Noir by Chanel: launched in 2012. Created by Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake.

Bois des Iles c1926

Bois des Iles: launched in 1926, in US in 1929. Created by Ernest Beaux,who was assisted by Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine.

Gardenia de Chanel c1925

Gardenia: Gardenia is gorgeous floral bouquet and an admirable example of talent of the great perfume creator Ernest Beaux. Beaux created this exquisite perfume in 1925. Gardenia was available as parfum extrait, eau de Gardenia (eau de toilette) and eau de cologne. Chanel released face powder scented with the Gardenia essence around 1930.

Ivoire de Chanel c1932

Ivoire de Chanel was launched in 1932.

Le 1940 Beige de Chanel c1931

Le 1940 Beige was launched in 1931.

Glamour de Chanel c1933

Glamour de Chanel: created in 1933 by Ernest Beaux, the perfume was discontinued around 1949.